Butterick 5880

I’ve started my next project – Vintage inspired Butterick 5880. The plan is to make it in silk crepe to wear to a friends wedding in July.

I’ve made a muslin this week and am wrestling with fitting challenges. Large rib cage and FBA required, and one shoulder need slightly lowered.

Currently trying piecing in fabric scraps and re-sewing.

Also realised why you need sew in interfacing as the neckline droops and flops over between the cut out V shapes if you don’t.

After lots of reading I decided to tackle the FBA. The dress has two darts at the side, so I couldn’t totally follow a textbook example.

I used the slash and spread approach, on both darts with extra length and width added.
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I also got my husband to trace my shoulders onto paper we had pinned to a door. I’d read an article where you used this the trace any slope into your pattern. Use right angle cuts to lower (or raise) arm hole to maintain shape.

Remade the front of dress and changed on muslin, this time using sew in interface. Still didn’t like neckline. Drafted as a lower curve.

Next stage silk…..another night.

Well a few weeks have passed since I started this dress. I was scared of sewing with the silk but it turned out that it wasn’t too slippy.

I ended up with lots of changes to the top. I couldn’t get the neckline to work with the cut out shape. So the neckline was changed to a low scoop – taking care to make it perpendicular at the centre fold.

The next major change was to solve an error on my part. I’d taken care when cutting the fabric not to have two large blue flowers in an inappropriate place on the top……as the fabric had lots of flowers I thought I’d avoid the biggest and hope for the best. It didn’t work – ended up with two small flowers with black centres in totally the wrong place.

Disaster was averted by turning top inside out and using the plain silk to the front. I already had used this on the lining of the ruffle for show. Added home made bias binding to the neckline, made using the colette tutorial on making bias tape from a square.

Skirt all came together ok but worth noting that the ruffle with it’s pleats makes it heavy. Decided to add a waist stay to help hold it in place and not drag the top down.

Final embellishment was making a silk flower using the lotus flower pattern from threads magazine. More on that in a separate post.

I found the belt too short when made from the supplied pattern piece. Don’t think I’ll bother with it.

Final pictures will follow shortly – from the wedding but here’s a few of the finished dress.

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